THE GAMBAI 2013 - DAY 8 - 22ND NOVEMBER

GEORGETOWN – MORNING RIVER CRUISE- NORTH BANK EXCURSION – AFTERNOON RIVER CRUISE No. 2

A change in the weather sent the temperature soaring so we were very glad to be on a boat for most of the day. Our day started at 7am in th dining room for breakfast, hot coffee was a welcome too.

We planned to board a boat for a one-way cruise down river at 9am so we had an hour or so to fill. We did this by taking a track from the ‘camp’ heading east for about 1km. We found ourselves in dense scrub with patches of open areas, lots of bird song was in the air. 

A fabulous find was, in my opinion, the most beautiful of all Bee-eaters the Red-throated Bee-eater what a stunner, there were several of them using an acacia tree for perching and hunting from. They were joined by Village Indigobird, Little Weaver, Common Gonolek, Village Weaver and a Red-billed Firefinch.

A little further along the track we found a couple of European migrants in the form of Olivaceous and Subalpine Warblers, then we saw a Violet Turaco and two Black-headed Plovers flew over us. Another great find was a Gabar Goshawk, it just in the sun preening and posing for our cameras.

RED-THROATED BEE-EATER

R T BEE-EATER WITH A VILLAGE INDIGOBIRD

  

We boarded our boat at 9am and headed down river in a westerly direction, just as we boarded a shout went up “Bateleur, Bateleur”, we all looked up and sure enough a superb adult Bateleur flew over the boat, we all great views of it.

For the next 4 hours we drifted down river watching anything that moved including a Hippopotamus, Red Colobus Monkeys, Monitor Lizard and many species of birds. In fact we found a creditable 63 species during the trip with several sightings of African Fish Eagle nad also a numbers of species of vultures. We searched for both the African Finfoot and the Shining Blue Kingfisher without any joy but we were happy with the rest of the findings. Many Palm Swifts were coming down to drink in the middle of the river, we also bumped into many flocks of Little Swifts and with we found our first Mottled Spinetail of the trip. Overall it was a very pleasant experience in beautiful weather, picturesque surroundings and we saw all those birds.

GABOR GOSHAWK

At the end of the cruise we landed and boarded our bus for the return journey to our camp-on the-island but before we went back we decided to visit a quarry at Wassu to see more Red-throated Bee-eater. Despite a very hot temperature there were hundreds of birds at the quarries, many coming down to drink, whilst others were breeding there. We must have seen 100+ Red-throated Bee-eaters and we found several of the ‘must-see’ Carmine Bee-eater, another stunner. 

THE GROUP WALKING AROUND THE BEE-EATER QUARRY

The Northern Anteater Chat was good to see and another trip tick. Hundreds of weavers, bishops, whydahs, finches, swallows, martins and swifts were coming to drink, it was amazing. In the sky a raptor would drift over every few minutes we saw: Grasshopper Buzzard (3), Lizard Buzzard, Shikra, Red-necked Falcon, Wahlberg’s Eagle, Marsh Harrier and African Harrier-Hawk and a Honey Buzzard was also new for us. In the flocks of hirundines we found several of the huge Mosque Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow, Red-chested Swallow, Sand Martin, Little Swift and more Mottled Spinetails. Flocks of weavers and bishops and many whydahs were flying around and coming to the water.

COMMON GONOLEK

Back on the bus we now headed eastward towards Georgetown approaching from the north bank, we stopped once to admire and photograph a Rufous–crowned Roller and we counted at least 10 Abysinian Rollers sitting on the power lines.

We arrived back at the ‘camp’ at 3pm and immediately decided that it was too hot to go birding on land so we booked a second boat trip for 4:30pm, this one would be to search in earnest for African Finfoot, Shining -blue Kingfisher and Swamp Flycatcher.

The second boat trip lasted 2 hours and we did see some good birds including a pair of African Fish Eagles mating and a Gabar Goshawk ransacking a colony of weaver’s nests. Several Swamp Flycatchers were seen but we dipped on the other two target birds, you can’t say that we didn’t try.

Dinner was eight and at that time it was a joy to sit out in a lovely pleasant temperature, there was a clear sky for the first time on the trip and the display of stars was amazing.

THE GAMBIA 2013 - DAY 7 - 21ST NOVEMBER

TENDABA to GEORGETOWN WITH STOPS AT: SOMA MARSHES – BUIBA MARSHES – JAHALLY RICE FIELDS AND MANY OTHER SHORT STOPS

It just keeps on getting better and better, more new species today with our trip tally reaching 230 and we are only half-way through the tour. The weather has played a major role in our enjoyment, it has been overcast nearly every day, the temperature has remained relatively low and so we are able to stay out all day with no midday breaks. 

We left Tendaba at 8am and headed further eastward towards Georgetown Island some 150 kilometres away. We stopped to look at many species along the way including a couple of troops of Patas Monkeys. Our first scheduled stop was just outside the town of Soma where a huge expanse of marshland and open water is dissected by the main road. We parked at the side of the road on the causeway and listed a good number of species. The main target species was the Egyptian Plover (crocodile bird), there was one present and it caused quite a bit of excitement within the group, alas it was too far out to photograph. We also saw Osprey, Marsh Sandpiper, Gull-billed and Caspian Terns, Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Black-winged Stilt, Hammerkop, African Darter, several species of herons and egrets. White-faced Whistling Duck, Northern Shoveler and Spur-winged Goose were also present. The resident Red-rumped Swallows were coming down to the lake shore-line to collect mud for nesting building

Next stop was after we had passed through Soma, it was at a large pool covered in lily pads, the pool stretched either side of the road. We quickly found African Jacana but our target bird was the Pygmy Goose, a family party of this colourful tiny goose we were seen in the mid-distance. For me the best bird was a Black-bellied Bustard, this huge bird flew across our line of sight, then it circled and landed behind a line of bushes at the far end of the pool, fantastic.

THE TINY NAMAQUA DOVE COULD FIT IN YOUR POCKET!

Another stop was to look at a group of vultures perched in a roadside tree, we found Griffon Vulture (3), Ruppell’s Vulture (3) and a few Hooded Vultures. All 3 species sat side by side so that we could compare the size difference of each of them.

A FLOCK OF NAMAQUA DOVES - waiting to come down to drink

For the next hour we made frequent stops adding a good number of raptors to our list: Dark Chanting Goshawk, Grey Kestrel, Lanner Falcon, Red-necked Falcon, Brown Snake Eagle, Beaudouin’s (snake) Eagle, African Harrier-Hawk, Montagu’s Harrier and of course many yellow-billed Kites.

Our lunch stop was at 12 noon at a cattle watering hole, it was alive with birds. I have never seen so many Namaqua Doves in my life, we counted 40 at one point! Flocks of weavers and bishops came down in large numbers theses flocks also held: Red-cheeked Cordonbleu, Bush Petronia, Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark, Yellow-fronted Canary, Black-rumped Waxbill, Red-billed Quelea, Cut-throat (Finch) and the enigmatic Northern (Sahel) Long-tailed Paradise Whydah. 

Chestnut - backed Sparrow-lark (male)

We tried to eat our picnic lunch but we were constantly interrupted by new sightings: Palm Swifts, Red-rumped Swallows, Brown Snake Eagle, Lanner Falcons (two swooped down over the pool trying to catch the doves), but the best of all was a White-headed Vulture, this is a rare sighting over the Gambia and nice species to have on our list.

Red-necked Falcon taken in bad light

After lunch we drove to Jahally Rice fields and as we drove into the large rice paddy area we were blown away by the sheer numbers of birds there, it was packed full of them,  I don’t know where to start as I write this record. For as far as the eye can see this area is covered in square shaped pools, most of them had a few inches of water with a growth of flowering lilies, other had a crop of well developed rice, other had neither, just a very little water and patches of grass. All of the pools had a bank of earth round each side giving good vantage points. 

We drove just 50 metres and parked, the pool on our left held 32 Afican Jacanas! The first pool ahead of us held little water but attracted many birds, 7 Maribou Storks joined lots of egrets and herons but also a large flock of Ruff, a few Wood Sandpipers, Yellow Wagtails and a couple of Common Snipe. As we made our way round the first section of pools and we found out target species, the Painted Snipe. It is the females of this species that have the most colour, reverse sexual dimorphism, males are plain with little colouring. Over the next hour we stalked them down and eventually had 7 of them feeding happily out in the open in our presence, what a joy, it brought the house down because this was one of the most wanted species on everybody’s list. 

HERE IS A PAINTED SNIPE FEST - THE MALES ARE THE PLAIN LOOKING BIRDS FOR A CHANGE!

We continued further into the marsh looking for another unusual special species, the Black Coucal, it took quite a while to find it but eventually we ‘nailed’ it. In the meantime we list another 20-25 species including a few new birds to our list: Winding Cisticola, Zitting Cisticola and Western Olivaceous Warbler.

We dragged ourselves away from the area and continued our journey to Georgetown Island, arriving at 5pm. By 6pm we were out again, we headed along a track found just outside our ‘Camp’. The light was fading as we searched for sandgrouse. A Subalpine Warbler was new for us and then we had great time watching a group of Stone Partridges, they flew up into the trees in preparation for roosting, they are very colourful little birds. We had several sightings of Four-banded Sandgrouse but not prolonged views, just fly-overs or birds taking off, just one tiny view when they were grounded.

 Well satisfied we our days’ birding we drove back to the camp and got ready for dinner, which was enjoyed by us all and washed down with a couple of cold beers.

THE GAMBIA 2013 - DAY 6 - 20TH NOVEMBER

TENDABA ‘CREEK CRAWL – MANGROVE CRUISE’ – KIANG WEST NATURE RESERVE

What a day, absolutely fantastic birding, the weather was superb and we listed 126 species without travelling more than 10 miles out of Tendaba Camp.

It was pitch black as we turned out breakfast at 6:30am but by the time we were boarding our piroque at 7am it was light! The ‘creek crawl’ lasted about 4 hours and our trip involved crossing the river to the north bank and then entering a labyrinth of river channels in the mangrove swamp. We timed it so that the tide was going out as we set off this would put us at the farthest position up stream when the tide was at its lowest, perfect for birding.

the group on the way to the mangrove swamps

 Our outward journey began by crossing the main body of the river, we saw about 10 species as we did this, most impressive was the large flocks of Cattle Egrets flying down river after leaving their roost. As we crept deeper into the mangroves, the water was flat-calm, a tranquil ambiance was broken only by the gentle hum of the boat’s engine, and bird song was everywhere. We were spell-bound, it was a magical experience.

As we got further into the swamp the channels narrowed and open sections appeared we were able to much further afield where we found even species of herons, egrets, storks and waders.

Bruce's Green Pigeon

The diminutive Mouse-brown Sunbird was a common sighting, this bird builds its hanging nest just above the water-line on the edge of the water, we saw them frequently hopping near their nest sites. Both the Malachite and the Blue-breasted Kingfisher were seen many times too, but the Woodland Kingfisher was a one-off. The Goliath Heron, a truly huge beast sat up high on a branch whilst our list of herons grew longer when found two pairs of the elusive White-backed Night Heron.

Abysinian Roller

The colourful family of bee-eaters was represented by: Blue-cheeked, European, Swallowtail and the hard to find, White-throated varieties, whilst the sky above us was always full of swallows and swifts.

We turned around as the channels grew narrow and their depth decreased and our return journey was just as pleasant, it got a little warmer as the sun broke through the high cloud. Lunch was served back at the Camp and we arrived just in time for it. Our wonderful experience behind us but the memories of seeing those 73 species of birds in the most perfect setting will last a life time.

Our afternoon birding consisted of a short walk at 2pm into the forest behind the camp, it was now hot and humid so not many species we flitting about. We did find a couple places where birds were coming to drink and this where we found: Red-winged Pytilia, Black-rumped Waxbill, Yellow-fronted Canary, Grey-headed Sparrow, Common Bubul and Red-billed Firefinch. Other birds seen in the tree tops were both Red-billed and African Grey Hornbills, Abysinian and Broad-billed Rollers, Fork-tailed Drongo, African Fish Eagle and many doves including the little beauty, Namaqua Dove. We also added Yellow-billed Stork as we returned to the camp.

African Golden Oriole

At 4pm we set off in the bus and headed for the nearby Kiang West Nature Reserve, but before we got very far we stopped to look at a Western-banded Snake Eagle and whilst watching that a Purple Heron flew over.

The huge area of Kiang West is accessed along narrow sandy tracks and comprises of open woodland with areas of cultivated fields (usually peanut and cous-cous crops). 

A peanut field that has just been harvested

We walked across a couple of peanut fields, it was harvest time, the peanut plants are pulled by hand and piled onto carts and taken to ‘thrashing’ areas where the plants are beaten to extract the nuts. The whole area was full of birds: mixed flocks of glossy starlings, groups of Senegal Parrots, Bruce’s Green Pigeons. Yellow Wagtails, Village Weavers, Drongos and many more species. We also found African Golden Oriole, African Fish Eagle, Grasshopper Buzzard, Lanner Falcon, Shikra, Brubru, Western Bonelli’s Warbler and many common species.

Our guide Modou, whistled-in a Peal-spotted Owlet which in turn, attracted a lot of species to a single tree, we noted Common Bubul, African Golden Oriole, Yellow White-eye, Green-backed Eremomela, Pygmy Sunbird, Black-crowned Tchagra, Greater Honey Guide, Scarlet-chested Sunbird and a Forked-tailed Drongo. All these species sat in one tree and mobbed the owlet, it was quite a din, the tiny Pygmy Sunbird had the audacity to clip the owlet’s head as it flew over it.

Almost dark - a Spotted Thick-knee lands on the track

As the light began to fade we drove to another sandy track where dense scrub and open grassy areas formed an excellent habitat for nightjars. An African Hawk-Eagle flew across our line of sight as drove along and an African Hobby hawked insect in the fading light.

As well as nightjars the area is also good for a special kind of Thick-knee and we searched for that first. Soon we were watching our prize, the Spotted Thick-knee, a beautifully marked species that walked with a grace and elegance holding its head up high. We also found Double Spurred Francolin, Four-banded Sandgrouse and Bush Petronia. As it got dark the nightjars the came out in numbers, we saw many Long-tailed Nightjars (the long tail is quite obvious in flight as well as when sitting on the ground). A couple of Standard Winged Nightjars also appeared, unfortunately they didn’t have the long pennant feathers on the wings but were appreciated just the same.

It was now pitch black so we drove back to the camp for dinner, it had been a very long day but our tally of 126 species was a WINGSPAN best for the Gambia and just desserts for our effort.