THE GAMBIA 2013 - DAY 6 - 20TH NOVEMBER

TENDABA ‘CREEK CRAWL – MANGROVE CRUISE’ – KIANG WEST NATURE RESERVE

What a day, absolutely fantastic birding, the weather was superb and we listed 126 species without travelling more than 10 miles out of Tendaba Camp.

It was pitch black as we turned out breakfast at 6:30am but by the time we were boarding our piroque at 7am it was light! The ‘creek crawl’ lasted about 4 hours and our trip involved crossing the river to the north bank and then entering a labyrinth of river channels in the mangrove swamp. We timed it so that the tide was going out as we set off this would put us at the farthest position up stream when the tide was at its lowest, perfect for birding.

the group on the way to the mangrove swamps

 Our outward journey began by crossing the main body of the river, we saw about 10 species as we did this, most impressive was the large flocks of Cattle Egrets flying down river after leaving their roost. As we crept deeper into the mangroves, the water was flat-calm, a tranquil ambiance was broken only by the gentle hum of the boat’s engine, and bird song was everywhere. We were spell-bound, it was a magical experience.

As we got further into the swamp the channels narrowed and open sections appeared we were able to much further afield where we found even species of herons, egrets, storks and waders.

Bruce's Green Pigeon

The diminutive Mouse-brown Sunbird was a common sighting, this bird builds its hanging nest just above the water-line on the edge of the water, we saw them frequently hopping near their nest sites. Both the Malachite and the Blue-breasted Kingfisher were seen many times too, but the Woodland Kingfisher was a one-off. The Goliath Heron, a truly huge beast sat up high on a branch whilst our list of herons grew longer when found two pairs of the elusive White-backed Night Heron.

Abysinian Roller

The colourful family of bee-eaters was represented by: Blue-cheeked, European, Swallowtail and the hard to find, White-throated varieties, whilst the sky above us was always full of swallows and swifts.

We turned around as the channels grew narrow and their depth decreased and our return journey was just as pleasant, it got a little warmer as the sun broke through the high cloud. Lunch was served back at the Camp and we arrived just in time for it. Our wonderful experience behind us but the memories of seeing those 73 species of birds in the most perfect setting will last a life time.

Our afternoon birding consisted of a short walk at 2pm into the forest behind the camp, it was now hot and humid so not many species we flitting about. We did find a couple places where birds were coming to drink and this where we found: Red-winged Pytilia, Black-rumped Waxbill, Yellow-fronted Canary, Grey-headed Sparrow, Common Bubul and Red-billed Firefinch. Other birds seen in the tree tops were both Red-billed and African Grey Hornbills, Abysinian and Broad-billed Rollers, Fork-tailed Drongo, African Fish Eagle and many doves including the little beauty, Namaqua Dove. We also added Yellow-billed Stork as we returned to the camp.

African Golden Oriole

At 4pm we set off in the bus and headed for the nearby Kiang West Nature Reserve, but before we got very far we stopped to look at a Western-banded Snake Eagle and whilst watching that a Purple Heron flew over.

The huge area of Kiang West is accessed along narrow sandy tracks and comprises of open woodland with areas of cultivated fields (usually peanut and cous-cous crops). 

A peanut field that has just been harvested

We walked across a couple of peanut fields, it was harvest time, the peanut plants are pulled by hand and piled onto carts and taken to ‘thrashing’ areas where the plants are beaten to extract the nuts. The whole area was full of birds: mixed flocks of glossy starlings, groups of Senegal Parrots, Bruce’s Green Pigeons. Yellow Wagtails, Village Weavers, Drongos and many more species. We also found African Golden Oriole, African Fish Eagle, Grasshopper Buzzard, Lanner Falcon, Shikra, Brubru, Western Bonelli’s Warbler and many common species.

Our guide Modou, whistled-in a Peal-spotted Owlet which in turn, attracted a lot of species to a single tree, we noted Common Bubul, African Golden Oriole, Yellow White-eye, Green-backed Eremomela, Pygmy Sunbird, Black-crowned Tchagra, Greater Honey Guide, Scarlet-chested Sunbird and a Forked-tailed Drongo. All these species sat in one tree and mobbed the owlet, it was quite a din, the tiny Pygmy Sunbird had the audacity to clip the owlet’s head as it flew over it.

Almost dark - a Spotted Thick-knee lands on the track

As the light began to fade we drove to another sandy track where dense scrub and open grassy areas formed an excellent habitat for nightjars. An African Hawk-Eagle flew across our line of sight as drove along and an African Hobby hawked insect in the fading light.

As well as nightjars the area is also good for a special kind of Thick-knee and we searched for that first. Soon we were watching our prize, the Spotted Thick-knee, a beautifully marked species that walked with a grace and elegance holding its head up high. We also found Double Spurred Francolin, Four-banded Sandgrouse and Bush Petronia. As it got dark the nightjars the came out in numbers, we saw many Long-tailed Nightjars (the long tail is quite obvious in flight as well as when sitting on the ground). A couple of Standard Winged Nightjars also appeared, unfortunately they didn’t have the long pennant feathers on the wings but were appreciated just the same.

It was now pitch black so we drove back to the camp for dinner, it had been a very long day but our tally of 126 species was a WINGSPAN best for the Gambia and just desserts for our effort.